Off-Season Travel in Europe

Tips for Combining Budget Travel with Cultural Immersion

By Volker Poelzl

Portugal's southern coast gets few visitors in the winter.

Most travelers choose the warm summer months to visit Europe, and there are indeed many advantages: The days are longer and the weather is warm and dry, allowing for a variety of activities outdoors. There are also a plethora of cultural, music, and art festivals all over the continent. On the other hand, traveling during high season also has many drawbacks: Airline tickets are far more expensive, trains are crowded, hotels fill up quickly, and the cost for room and board is also higher. In addition, regardless of where your destination, there will be large crowds everywhere; travel off-the-beaten-path in Europe during high season has become more and more difficult over the years. If you are seeking a less crowded and more affordable trip to Europe, you might want to consider a visit during off-seasons such as spring or fall. You will be able to take advantage of lower prices, fewer tourists, and you will almost certainly enjoy a more intimate travel experience which includes more contact with the local people and culture.

Just When is the Off-Season in Europe?

Determining when a travel destination is off-season depends on a variety of factors. Weather plays an important role in determining the main tourist season. Summer is the main tourist season throughout most of Europe, but what are quiet mountain villages in the summer burst with activity during the winter ski season. With the exception of beach resorts along the Mediterranean, few travel destinations in Europe close down entirely during off-season. Local weather conditions make some destinations attractive much deeper into fall than you might expect. This is certainly true for the southern rim of the Alps in Italy, where mild weather persists throughout October, attracting many travelers to activities such as hiking, culinary tours, wine tasting, and just plain relaxing. On the other hand, tourist facilities in some destinations remain closed until the beginning of summer. Several years ago I traveled to the French island of Corsica over Easter. The weather was still fairly cool, and I had a hard time finding an open campground on the island. A 2-week visit to Paris in February also turned out to be a very damp and chilly experience. Although we saved on accommodations during this winter visit, the weather forced us to spend much of our time at cafés while spending money on snacks and refreshments we really did not want. If you are considering a trip to Europe during the winter months, research the local weather and average temperatures to avoid a less pleasant experience.

But do keep in mind that even during off-season there are many festivities and holidays popular with European tourists; among them are Christmas, New Year’s, Mardi Gras, and Easter—and this is only to mention the most common holidays. During these holidays prices are likely to go up at hotels, trains and airplanes will fill up quickly, and many cities and regions are once again crowded with tourists. A few years back I spent Holy Week in Paris, and I found myself surrounded by Italian tourists nearly everywhere I went. To get away from the crowds, I took a train to Chartres to visit the famous Gothic cathedral--which turned out to be practically deserted. Similarly, popular destinations in Tuscany and elsewhere in Italy are crowded with central European tourists over Easter, eager to get away from the rainy springtime at home and enjoy a pleasant sunny week away from home. There are also regional holidays which may surprise unsuspecting visitors expecting low prices and plenty of hotel vacancies. December is certainly off-season in Portugal, but over the weekend of December 8, Lisbon suddenly fills up with vacationers from neighboring Spain. I only found out later that the holiday of the Immaculate Conception on December 8 gave Spaniards a 3-day weekend, and many decide to spend it in Lisbon. To make sure that you are not unexpectedly bumping into a major local festival, holiday, or event held during off-season, it is important to do some research before you go. Check your guidebook for festivals and holidays, visit websites (such as these) which list them, or contact the local tourist office to find out the details.

Fall at the Gianiculo park in Rome above the Trastevere neighborhood. Photo by Gregory Hubbs

Small Local Festivals in Europe

The season for big European summer festivals ends around mid-September. After that things become a bit quiet, but if you travel to the countryside or small towns you can still find a lot of small festivals worth attending. There are wine and harvest festivals, small cultural and historic festivals dedicated to local history, music, art, handicrafts, food and traditions. Since these events are mostly attended by the resident population, it is a great opportunity to meet the locals, interact with them in their own language if you can, and learn more about their culture and way of life.  

Small local festivals are among the main attractions of off-season travel.

Local Fairs and Markets

Fairs and markets are among my favorite events to visit and in which to participate. If you have visited a farmer’s market in Provence, France, during the summer, you certainly know that there are more tourists than local shoppers. Visiting the same market in spring or fall, there will be mostly locals. It is fun to watch the local townsfolk descend on the nearby town on market day to buy their groceries and chat with their favorite butcher, baker, and cheese vendor. Visiting art fairs and flea markets during off-season also offers a pleasant experience of the local atmosphere.

Sightseeing During the Off-Season in Europe

For most travelers, a trip to Europe includes famous landmarks, museums, and other popular tourist destinations, but if you visit these places during high season, large crowds can pretty much spoil the local atmosphere. If you travel during off-season you will be able to explore important historic sites and landmarks much more intimately without being distracted by the usual large tourist crowds and therefore your visit will be much more rewarding. In northern Italy a few years ago, a museum curator took an hour to talk to me about Gothic art. I was the only visitor there at the time, and I gained a much deeper appreciation of medieval art from a man who was excited to share his knowledge.

The Roman Forum during the off-season is often almost tourist-free, as opposed to the huge crowds in oppressive heat during the peak months. Photo by Gregory Hubbs

Lodging

During high season, hotels often fill up early in the day, leaving late-arriving travelers scrambling for rooms. During off-season it is usually not a problem to find an economic and pleasant hotel even late in the day. In small towns you can expect locals to approach you at a railway or bus station and invite you to stay at their pension, guesthouse or bed and breakfast. With fewer guests, you can also expect friendlier and more attentive service at hotels and restaurants. Since prices for lodging are lower, it is also quite easy to find an affordable hotel in the town or city center you might not be able to afford in the summer. Staying in the historic center is a great experience, and it is much easier to get around on foot and explore the surrounding attractions.

Off-season hotels in Rome in the fall are often relatively cheaper and vacant. Photo by Gregory Hubbs

Transportation

The summer vacation months are high season for public transportation in Europe. Kids and university students are out of school, and everybody travels. One of the drawbacks of spontaneous and unplanned travel in Europe during the summer is the fact that trains and buses are often full. I remember taking an overnight train from Austria to Italy a few years back, when even the corridors of the railroad cars were crammed with travelers who couldn’t get a seat. I ended up sleeping in the narrow luggage rack high above the travelers crouching on the floor. This is why spring and fall are much more pleasant seasons to travel by train or bus. During off-season you won’t have any problems finding a seat, even on trains that don’t require a seat reservation.

Contact with the Locals

I grew up in one of Europe’s top tourist destinations (Salzburg, Austria), and I know from my own experience that locals avoid the areas frequented by thousands of tourists every day. By traveling off-season, you have the opportunity to mingle with the locals in their daily activities and it is much easier to have contact with them, especially in smaller cities and towns. I went to a flamenco bar in Seville in January a few years back, and there were only locals and a few international students. I had many lively conversations with the local crowd and stayed until the early morning hours.

In fall, wine-tasting festivals attract visitors to small towns all over Europe.

Based on my own experiences over the years I have compiled a short list of my favorite off-season destinations in Europe: 

Amsterdam in April

Enjoy the Queen’s Birthday Celebration (Koninginnedag), a large street festival held all over the city on April 30.

The Alps in October

For those travelers who enjoy mountains and hiking, the most pleasant weather in the Alps lies in early fall. Kids are back in school at that time, and you will share the magnificent mountains only with local hikers.

The Greek Islands in May

This is a great time to enjoy Greece without the crowds. The weather is pleasant, beaches are empty, and you will only find locals on the islands that are otherwise crowded with tourists.

Provence in September

Provence in southern France is one of the country’s most charming regions, but it gets crowded in the summer. Beginning in fall, local life returns to normal, and visitors will have a more quiet and enjoyable experience of the local culture and natural beauty.

September view of St. Paul de Vence in Provence. Photo by Gregory Hubbs

Tuscany in Spring

Once Easter is over, there are fewer visitors in Tuscany until the summer season picks up. This is a great time to travel: The landscape is lush and green, trees and flowers are in blossoms, and you can experience the local charm of cities and towns without crowds.

Small street in Tuscan village. Photo by Gregory Hubbs

Algarve in February

Portugal’s southernmost province is best known as a beach destination, but for those interested in the magnificent scenery and local culture, late winter and early spring is a great time to visit. This is when the almond trees are in flowers, and when the region’s historic towns and monuments are free from tourists. During the winter, busy tourist destinations take on again their traditional character as small fishing villages, and the locals go about their business as usual.

Andalusia in Winter

Southern Spain experiences cold spells from time to time, but the weather is usually quite pleasant in the winter. This is a great time to visit the region’s cultural treasures such as the Alhambra in Granada, the Alcázar palace in Seville, and the historic center of Córdoba.

Volker Poelzl is a regular contributor and senior columnist of Transitions Abroad. He has extensively traveled in Europe, mostly during off-season. Contact him at volkerpoelzl@cox.net.