Beyond the Guidebooks

Finding Your Own Places Is Best Way to Go

By Susan E. Ross

It’s very easy to feel overwhelmed by the things that must be done and seen in the great capitals of the world. A refreshing side trip to an out-of-the-way place is just the thing to calm down, get things in perspective, and do something that most tourists do not do. But finding the unusual requires some research. In short, you must go beyond the guidebooks.

Word of mouth is the best guide. Sometimes just having a special interest in the location makes everything happen. For instance, when my brother and I went to Agropoli, Italy to do family tree research, we went with no reservations and ended up at a wonderful, inexpensive hotel. It was handy to Paestum, a breathtakingly beautiful remnant of a Greek city set in a field of wild flowers. There was not a tour group to be seen. Certainly I remember Rome, Florence, and Venice, but my fondest memories are of rural Italy.

Picturesque villages abound. On a recent trip, some friends in Amsterdam told me I should go to Schiermonnikoog, an island in the North Sea. I took a bus to Leeuwarden, made a reservation at the VVV (tourist office), then took another bus to Lauersoog to get the ferry. (Although signs are written in Dutch, almost everyone speaks English.)

Schiermonnikoog is a paradise for bikers and walkers, with trails everywhere and several places to rent bikes. The wide, sandy beach is almost empty in late June; August is the busiest month for this least touristed of North Sea islands. It is pristine and the people are pleasant and friendly.

Upon returning to Leeuwarden, I found that it was a great base for day trips. I booked a B and B through the VVV office (next to the train station). The VVV offices will provide information and resources on many other interesting places to explore in the Friesland area. Holland is generally a comfortable place for a single traveler--people are friendly and helpful.

Moroccan Retreats

Living in the second largest city in Africa for the past three years, I occasionally needed a peaceful retreat. I found it in a little Mediterranean village named Oualidia. Hotel Hippocampe, a three-star hotel consisting of bungalows, has comfortable accommodations at a fabulous price. The restaurant offers calamari and several different kinds of fish. Hippocampe has ensuite bathrooms, tastefully decorated rooms, incredible views, a salt water pool, a gorgeous beach, and good service. Breakfast on the terrace is a wonderful way to start the day. Oualidia is approximately 2 1/2 hours from Casablanca by grande taxi (long distance taxi). The bus schedule is really not convenient. You can pay MAD500 for a whole grande taxi or wait for a group taxi, go to El Jadida, and then change to another group taxi to finish the trip (probably MAD60 total per person). The catch is it may take several hours to reach lovely Oualidia. In any case, determine the price before you leave. Allo Taxi, a very reliable service, will pick you up at your door. Look at it this way: MAD500 is about $50 ($1 = 10 MAD). Four people can easily fit in one of these taxis. It is probably worth $12 to get there in a hurry.

Essaouira, a former Portugese fishing village that now makes products of Thuya wood (a type of aromatic pine), is a sleepy place about three hours from Marrakesh by grande taxi. The town is beautiful and Villa Maroc is unique. All rooms are different, but the general decor is simple: whitewashed walls, linen spreads, Moroccan rugs and decorative details. Breakfast is brought to your room each morning: Moroccan pancakes, crepes, and decent coffee. Two seafood restaurants, Chalet de la Plage and Chez Sam are within easy walking distance. Outdoor stands by the port sell cooked-to-order fresh fish.

Volubilis Inn, outside Meknes, is another fine getaway. No one should miss the Roman ruins of Volubilis, and no one should see the ruins and not stay at the hotel. It is the only hotel in the immediate area, offering a view of empty fields and the ruins. On your walk to the ruins, you will encounter more locals than tourists. Staying in Fez or Meknes, spending the day at the ruins, and then leaving that lovely environment to return to the bustle of the town can be a sad prospect.

The Volubilis Inn costs approximately $60 for a double room, not including breakfast. Rooms not facing the ruins are less expensive.

The traveler who fears that he or she will be able to travel only once and therefore must see all of the “important” sights is the traveler who misses out.

SUSAN E. ROSS writes from Williamson, NY.