The Perfect Island Getaway

By John M. Edwards

The Philippines, notorious in the news for dangerous rebels and Imelda's collection of shoes, is well off the beaten tourist trail. But with over 7,000 islands to pick from, the Philipppines offers some of the world's best beaches and Asia's most welcoming people. When looking for idyllic islands undisturbed by the modern world, the main problem is narrowing down the search. But look no further: Malapascua.

Fly direct from Tokyo or Taiwan to Cebu (a possible stopover on Cathay-Pacific's $899 All Asia Pass). Most tourists arriving at Mactan international airport are Asians taking advantage of the luxury resorts 15 minutes away on Mactan Island (where Magellan was killed by Chief Lapu-Lapu). But budget travelers can head to Cebu City's northern bus terminal and take a D'Rough Riders bus to Maya, four hours and 60 pesos away ($1=40 pesos). From there one of the most idyllic islands in the Philippines is only a half hour away by small outrigger boats. Regular boats leave daily at 10 and 11:30 a.m. and cost 35 pesos per person. If you don't want to wait, you can hire your own boat for 300 pesos.

For those disillusioned by beautiful but touristy Boracay, Malapascua is just what the doctor ordered. It's similar in shape and size (small enough to walk around), but without the crowds.

No cars, no banks, no post office, just a few isolated fishing villages and a lighthouse. This is a perfect place to take a break and recharge the batteries. Just jump off the boat onto the powdery white sand of Bounty Beach and pick your beach hut. Traditional thatched nipa huts directly on the beach go for less than $10 in the off season (our summer) and around $20 in the high season (our winter).

Maybe the best place to stay is the Blue Water Beach Resort, which can be reached by cell phone. (Call 00-63-918-773-4124 and ask for Ramon). I stayed in a traditional hut (with modern bathroom, mosquito netting, and electric fan) right on the beach for $7, but the price can shoot up to $20 in the high season. Other places on the beach include the Cocobana Beach Resort, which charges 1,150 pesos in the high season (less than $30), and the very cheap, friendly Loida's, which has a couple of clean cabins for around 200-250 pesos. In the off season, the resorts are almost deserted, but most days boats pick up and unload a traveler or two for company (mostly German backpackers and Australian expats).

Both Blue Water and Cocobana have good restaurants offering Philippine and Western dishes, plus little thatched-roof bars on the beach. For more traditional Philippine fare, try the amazingly cheap Ging Ging's Flower Garden behind Blue Water. At two picnic tables, Ging Ging offers fish curry, squid with veggies, or chicken adobo for around 40 pesos, plus huge whole grilled fish starting at around 50 pesos. Breakfasts are also good (eggs, bacon, filtered coffee, mango juice, and homemade bread for around 35 pesos). Try also Sally's Eatery in town, with fish dishes for 35 pesos, and Loida's, on a small pier overlooking the water. Loida's, maybe the best restaurant on the island, charges around 125 pesos for full meals with big portions of whatever you want to eat that day.

When you finally have to leave (nobody stays for less than a week), you can charter an adventurous three-hour "Special Ride" by outrigger (1,300 pesos for the whole boat) to anotherfriendly place with perfect beaches: Bantayan Island. Both Malapascua and Bantayan are destined to become major tourist attractions, but for the moment they are almost unknown.

JOHN M. EDWARDS is a widely-published NY-based freelance editor and writer who has traveled extensively on five continents.