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Study Russian in St. Petersburg

Evening skyline of St. Petersburg
One evening skyline of St. Petersburg.

After reading a newspaper article on the colossal effort undertaken to spruce up St. Petersburg, Russia for her 300th birthday, memories of the city I’d visited in the mid-nineties came to mind. Eager to see the city after a good scrubbing, I began plotting my return. Having studied Russian in college, a language study trip seemed to offer a practical way to re-connect with the language, as well as provide a more meaningful experience than just a vacation. So I researched options on the Internet and ultimately selected Liden & Denz, a well-regarded private school that counted diplomats and numerous large Western corporations among its clientele.

Researching the Language School

The school’s informative website answered most of my questions, such as how soon I could start (about six weeks after applying), costs involved (currently about $300 per week for a minimum of two weeks), size of classes (six to 10 students), excursions offered, airport transfers, safety, visas, etc. The school’s administrative director, quickly answered additional questions via e-mail.

I e-mailed the school a completed application and after getting back a letter of invitation, dropped off my visa application at the Russian embassy in Washington, D.C. I then made my flight reservations and counted the weeks until departure. During that time, the school emailed more detailed information on my homestay family (an older couple), as well as useful tips on what to expect during my month-long stay.

Arrival and Accommodations

A walking street in St. Petersburg
A walking street in St. Petersburg.

On a cold, rainy Saturday afternoon in May I arrived at Pulkovo Airport. After clearing customs, I found a cheerful young woman holding a “Liden & Denz” sign. She introduced herself as Larissa, a program assistant. We were soon joined by another student and then herded by van to our new homes; we both chose the school’s homestay option over private apartments or hotels as we wanted closer contact with daily life in Russia. Larissa filled us in on many practical and pertinent details including where best to exchange money, what to do about laundry, and how to make phone calls.

I was fortunate that my apartment was a 10-minute walk to vibrant Nevsky Prospekt, the city’s premier boulevard lined with stylish cafes, restaurants and fashionable shops. Also nearby were a bakery and a market selling groceries. Many students were further out in the suburbs, a long metro ride from the center and school.

Classes

On the first day of class we waited patiently as three expensive private buses (triple the price of the public bus) drove by. I nervously glanced at my watch, but 10 minutes later the public bus stopped and we hopped on for the 10-minute ride. At 8:45 a.m., we arrived at Liden & Denz’s facility—a modern complex complete with a small library; computer lab; receptionist selling postcards, stamps, and phonecards; and a cantina serving tasty and inexpensive lunches, snacks, and of course tea. I grabbed a quick coffee and was shown to a room with other new students.

After a written placement exam and oral discussion, I was assigned to a class. We quickly began introducing ourselves adhering to the “Russian only” policy in the classroom. My classmates included a Polish travel writer, a recent American MBA grad living in Russia with his Russian wife, a German masseuse treating Russian soccer players at a sports clinic back home, a French businesswoman, and two college-aged Swiss students.

Our teacher was professional, patient and organized, with a wry sense of humor. It quickly became clear there would be no avoiding discussions—the students would do most of the talking, with the occasional stoppage only to discuss a point of grammar. Though little formal homework was assigned, I was discouraged by how much I’d forgotten since my college days. So I pored over my books and dictionary every night; soon, my “deer in the headlights” look gave way to renewed enthusiasm and comprehension.

Siteseeing in the Great City of St. Petersburg and Novgorod

We spent four hours in class from 9 a.m. until about 1:45 p.m., Monday through Friday with a brief mid-morning break and a lunch break. After classes finished, the enthusiastic events coordinator, led optional excursions (most involved a modest fee) to places such as the Hermitage, the Vodka Museum, and on a walking tour of Dostoyevsky’s haunts. The first afternoon trip was a free walking tour of the city. We strolled to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the Church on Spilled Blood (modeled on St. Basil’s in Moscow), the Winter Palace and the Hermitage, and the Peter and Paul Fortress.

The great and huge Hermitage museum
The great and huge Hermitage museum.
The beautiful church in St. Petersburg, Savior on Blood
A beautiful church in St. Petersburg, the Resurrection of Jesus Christ a.k.a. the Church of Spilled Blood.

We also were led on a couple Saturday daytrips. One was to the spectacular Catherine Palace in the lovely town of Pushkin, a short train ride away. We marveled at the recently reopened “Amber Room,” a chamber covered with panels of intricately carved amber. Reputedly plundered by the Nazis in World War II, it was painstakingly reconstructed from black and white photographs with magnificent results.

The following Saturday brought us to both Russia’s oldest city, Novgorod, and its oldest church, the striking white and silver Cathedral of St. Sophia, built in 1045. We dined in a nearby restaurant serving historic meals set partly inside the town’s ancient fortress wall, then visited an open-air museum of wooden churches on Novgorod’s outskirts.

Most of us finished class in the early afternoon and were then free to wander the city. (Our stay coincided with the northern latitude’s “white nights,” so no matter how late we stayed out we rarely walked home in the dark.) When not on a school-sponsored trip, many of us met to practice our new language skills at cafes, pubs, museums, and world famous theaters like the Mariinsky. A few lucky students were invited to their host families’ dachas (summer homes) on weekends.

While the $2 billion spent renovating and restoring St. Petersburg left the big sights literally sparkling, and would’ve impressed even Peter the Great, the campaign was controversial as it produced few benefits for ordinary Russian citizens for whom daily life remains a struggle. Bleak apartment blocks, decrepit infrastructure, and pollution-spewing factories hover just beyond the historic attractions. Walking past adolescents drinking beer on the way to school every morning and babushkas hawking handfuls of scraggly vegetables and the odd household item outside the metro was to witness firsthand Russia’s often harsh economic realities.

The program fully met and often exceeded expectations. Superior language instruction, well-planned cultural activities, and a pleasant, efficient staff combined for a uniquely rewarding experience in this intriguing country.

For More Info

Liden & Denz, Italianskaya ulitsa 17, 191186 St.Petersburg, Russian Federation; Tel.: +7-812-334-07-88; www.lidenz.ru. There is also a branch in Moscow, and it is possible to combine the two cities, depending on length of stay.

Cost per week of instruction (4 hours per day group course, five days a week): currently about $300 with a mininum of two weeks. There is also a one-time registration fee. Specials are occasionally offered and are listed on the website, as are many other options such as intensive courses and one-on-one lessons.

You can find many more language school options in our Russian Language School section, from local language schools, international chains, to University-run classes.

Useful links to information for studying and traveling in Russia:

  • www.sras.org (many study and research opportunities in Russia.)
Related Topics
Language Study Abroad: Articles and Programs
Language Schools in Russia
Living in Russia: Expatriate Resources
 
 
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