Farm Vacations in Traunsee

Experience the Charm of Austria’s Lake District

Article and Photos by Volker Poelzl

The town of Traunkirchen juts into the lake before the imposing backdrop of Erlakogel mountain. © Volker Poelzl. All Rights Reserved.

A steep cone-shaped mountain rises straight from the shore of the deep blue lake. On the opposite bank, a small peninsula juts into the lake, the white façade of a baroque church reflected in the water. Near the shore, the pointed tip of a rowboat emerges from behind a wall of reeds. And out in the middle of the lake, a sailboat slowly moves across the water. This is a snapshot of Traunsee, one of several dozen lakes situated in Austria’s picturesque lake district known as Salzkammergut —located at the northern rim of the Alps in central Austria and in many ways the country’s heartland. Human settlement here is traced back to the late Bronze Age, some 3,000 years ago, and one archeological site dates back to the Paleolithic age, 50,000 years ago. What attracted early settlers to the region were the abundant salt mines, which eventually gave it its name: Salzkammergut means “salt chamber estate.”

A view from the top of Traunstein mountain, which rises straight up from the lakeshore. © Volker Poelzl. All Rights Reserved.

Despite its exceptional beauty and fjord-like scenery, the lakeside is not lined with large hotels and restaurants. Accommodations are modest and rustic, mostly in small pensions, private homes, and farms. Competition from other countries of the European Union and other economic pressures have led farmers to look for alternative ways to generate additional income. A growing number of farmers provide accommodations for visitors, with friendly, personalized service and a familiar atmosphere that make farmstays a great alternative. Farmers are the backbone of regional culture here, and staying on a farm is a first-hand opportunity to experience a slice of local culture and traditional small-farm life while visiting a region largely unspoiled by high-profile tourism, industry, and urban development. On most farms guests also have the opportunity to participate in the daily activities, from feeding animals to turning hay. Many farms also have their own cottage industry of farm products—a variety of farming activities ranging from organic produce to jams, preserves, pear and apple cider, handcrafted brandies, honey, fruit juices, cheese, and other dairy products.

Many hiking routes lead past mountain pastures and herdsmen’s huts. © Volker Poelzl. All Rights Reserved.

Regional Culture

In addition to experiencing Austrian farm life and contact with the host family visitors will also find a region rich in local history and culture. All around Traunsee the celebration of local culture and festivals still plays an important role in the lives of the locals. In addition to weekly farmers' markets, there are craft fairs, a popular annual ceramics fair, and the summer performing arts festival “Gmundner Festwochen” (July and August). A Catholic procession in boats across the lake has been held as part of the Corpus Christi celebration every year in late May to early June since 1632. Ask your host or the tourist office about festivals, country fairs, and other celebrations held in the villages in the vicinity. An annual "Seefest" (or Lake Festival) in Altmünster in late July is a typical showcase of regional costumes, music, folk dances, and other traditions. Locally caught fish such as trout, perch, pike, carp, eel, as well as waterfowl and venison, are popular specialties found at restaurants around Traunsee. Don’t miss out on the delicious “Stanglfisch,” a locally caught fish grilled on a skewer, sold during summer festivals.

The Outdoor Playground

Besides the plethora of cultural events, the Traunsee region offers an incredible wealth of recreational activities in an unspoiled natural environment. Within a half hour’s drive, bus, or boat ride, there are easy family hikes as well as serious challenges for those fit enough to conquer one of the imposing peaks that rise straight up from the lakeshore. There is also an extensive network of mountain bike routes, and the lake beckons to take out a kayak or sailboat, or, for the hearty, to go for a swim in the clear and cool waters. There is hardly a trace of high-impact mass tourism to be found, unlike some other lakes in the Salzkammergut region. Hiking trails and forest paths have existed for hundreds of years, and it is sailing and paddling, not motor-boating, that are the main activities on the lake. Since many farms have horses, horseback riding is another great way to explore the hills and forests around the lake.

Hikers take a rest at a mountain hut. © Volker Poelzl. All Rights Reserved.

Farmers have been the stewards of the land for centuries here, and by supporting local farms, visitors help preserve the region’s unique beauty, traditional farming activities, and local culture. The increasing popularity of farm vacations sends the encouraging message to farmers that the pristine ecosystem, the diverse local customs, and traditional farm life are important assets that are worth preserving and that make a visit to Traunsee a special experience.

Volker Poelzl is a freelance writer and frequent contributor to Transitions Abroad. On his recent visit to Austria, he hiked, jogged, paddled and bicycled his way around the Traunsee region. Contact him at volkerpoelzl@cox.net.