Monastery Stays Near Kathmandu, Nepal

By Mary Ann Davis

The author doing yoga with Nepali and Tibetan children near the stupa monument in Boudha

BOE-daa is Nepali slang for the Boudhanath, the ancient pilgrimage site just outside Kathmandu, in earlier times headquarters for one of Nepal's many Tibeto-Burmeseethnic groups, the Tamangs. Boudha retains its simplicity amid Nepal's rather frantic pace of development. It's an especially nice place to recover from travel in India or to take a break from Kathmandu (15 minutes away).

The 27 Tibetan Buddhist monasteries (GON-pas) built in Boudha since the 1950s welcome visitors free of charge. A complete listing with addresses and phone numbers can be found in an old monastery building that is now the Tourism Office. To reach it, enter the Boudha main gate and circle the historic stupa monument until you see it.

Boudha only has monasteries (housing for men). For nunneries (AH-nee Gonpas), consult the Tourism Office. The Boudha monasteries welcome visitors, but if you're not sure ask the monk sitting just inside the chapel door on a raised platform to the door's left. Once you've reached the shrine room (puja room), where the service will be performed, slip your shoes off and store them with others outside the door. Bow your head respectfully toward the alter, and sit in any vacant spot other than those in the inner rows, which are reserved for monks performing the puja.

Never give the monks money. You can donate pencils, paper, or cash to the monastery office or put it into the donations box.

Many of Boudha's monasteries have daily religious services with chanting and traditional musical accompaniment. Two o'clock is an especially important time in Boudha gonpas, for it's then that the monks chant services to Mahakala, an important Tibetan protector diety.

To reach Boudha (the full name is pronounced BOE-duh-nath) from Kathmandu take the #2 microbus (blue van) or a Bikram (small shared bus) leaving Rani Pokhari or the main bus stand Rutna Park (RUT-nuh). The charge is 11 Nepali rupees and it takes about 15 minutes. Also, a transfer van leaves from the Thamel area (where many tourists stay). Be sure to tell the driver you'll need to transfer at sahid gate (side gate). The charge is 7 rupees to sahid gate.

You can also take a private auto-rickshaw for about 75-80 rupees; taxis are about 100 rupees. Buses (5 rupees) leave from Ratna Park and other places such as Putali Sadak along the route. The #2 written on the bus indicates Boudha, but ask anway.

Several guesthouses in Boudha are attached to the monasteries. Thrangu Gonpa and Dilya (Lotus Guest House) are two popular ones. Guesthouse names and phone numbers are listed on the Tourist Office wall.

MARY ANN DAVIS (Ven. Ngawang) currently teaches at Chiang Mai Univ. in Thailand.