Travel on the Border of Poland and Belarus

The Wild Things Are Not So Far Away

By Mishelle Shepard

Finding an “out-of-the-way” place doesn’t have to mean traveling to an obscure island in the South Pacific or a remote village in Africa or Asia. Some places in Europe teeter on the brink of being unknown, yet cater to the traveler better than some of the well-worn tourist spots.

One such unique find lies along the Belaursian-Polish border and boasts the last major expanse of virgin forest remaining in mainland Europe. Another of the Bialowieza National Park’s claim to fame is the largest population of European bison, at one time nearly extinct. The keen observer can spot not only bison but wolves, lynx, elk, deer, wild boar, tarpans, and the unique zubron (a cross between a bison and cow).

Horse-drawn carriages and bikes are options for travelers who don’t wish to take the trails on foot. A guide is mandatory in the “strict reserve” area. So is a small fee.

Before its establishment as a national park in 1921, the Bialowieza Forest was the hunting ground of Polish kings and Russians tsars. In the villages surrounding the park, small wooden houses with tiny but extravagant gardens look like relics of another age; so do the kerchiefed elderly ladies chatting on small groups on their roadside benches.

I found making advanced telephone reservations impossible but luckily unnecessary, even in the busy month of August. If you feel too uncomfortable venturing so far from home without a reservation, try one of the email addresses below.

Getting there is easiest and most convenient by car, but regular buses run from Bialystok, about two hours away, whichdrop passengers off at the Palace Park gate just opposite the PTOP (tourist) office. Day trips from Bialystok are very popular in summer.

MISHELLE SHEPARD is a freelance writer.