Mount Everest on the Cheap

Trekking is a Lot Least Costly Than a Climb

By Anna van Os

Five out of every six of the roughly 4,000 climbers who have attempted to scale Everest have failed, and over 142 climbers have died in the attempt. But danger is not the only factor that keeps many people away from Everest’s slopes. Reaching the uppermost point on earth is extremely expensive. For a lot less money than summiting (and somewhat less elevation), try a Mount Everest trek.

For our trip to Everest, we needed a permit to hike to the base camp ($15) and a permit to enter Sagamartha National Park ($10). To get both permits may take a day, but, despite rumors to the contrary, you can obtain the documents without the help of agencies. Just go to the permit office in Kathmandu. Permit in hand, it is advisable to register with the Himalayan Rescue Association in Thamel. They can notify your embassy in the event of an emergency and may be able to arrange a helicopter evacuation.

Catch the day’s only bus at 5 a.m. from the central bus station in Kathmandu to Jiri, the village where the road finishes its journey into the mountains. The ride is cheap—only $5. Welcoming porters carry trekkers’ rucksacks and serve as guides to the base camps. Our porter, a Sherpa named Zackra, agreed on a price of about $2 a day, which included his food and lodging.

The first days through the Himalayan foothills left us bone-weary, not only because we were getting used to eight hours of walking a day but also because each day we had to ascend between 500 and 1,000 meters. At the end of each day we were dying for a bed. Most lodges along the way offer modest accommodations for about $1 a night.

As the trails became steeper, we entered the realm of that other legendary Himalayan menace: high altitude sickness. The Himalayan Rescue Association recommends that climbers not ascend more than 300 meters in any one day after reaching 3,000 meters. It also recommends taking plenty of rest days during the trek and drinking at least four liters of water a day.

At 3,500 meters we entered Namche Bazaar, the legendary capital of the Sherpa people, and took a day off to acclimatize and visit the colorful market where Sherpa and Tibetan people sell their goods.

After Namche Bazaar we passed a beautiful Tibetan Buddhist monastery and ascended from Tengboche to Dengboche, at 4,300 meters the highest village on our route. At this level, climbers are advised to drink as much water as possible and eat garlic soup.

Our goal was to hike to the top of the Kala Pattar, the peak above Everest Base Camp (5,500 meters), where the view of Mount Everest is said to be the best. The beauty of the scene is, in fact, beyond words. The brilliant south col of Everest hangs in the deep blue sky. But it is as deadly as it is beautiful. We had come as close to both the beauty and the danger as we dared.

On the way back home we opted for a plane from Lukla instead of walking all the way back to Jiri. The flight cost about $80, but it was worth it. Not only was the in-flight scenery unforgettable, but after 20 days of hiking we were ready for a hot bath and a decent meal.

The best months to visit Nepal are April and May and from September to November. Be sure to bring a down jacket, hiking boots, and a good backpack.

ANNA VAN OS is a Dutch freelance journalist, just back home after living in London and Prague for two years.