At Home in Costa Rica

Homestays Can Be the Best Part Of Language Vacations

By Roger L. Edwards, Jr.

I woke to the pleasant songs of tropical birds as they played outside my bedroom window, followed by the gentle, rhythmic sound of Carlos sweeping the patio. Soon after the sweeping stopped, there was a gentle knock at my bedroom door. Carlos slowly entered calling out softly, ¡Andele, mi hermano!, ¡Andele! (Get a move on, my brother! Get a move on!) He brought me a large glass of freshly-made fruit juice and stood there, with a big smile, watching me drink up before I went to take my shower.

Bueno para su salud (Good for your health), he declared. This was how every day that I spent in Costa Rica began—a warm greeting from Carlos, a relojero and joyero (watch and jewelry repairman) and my host father.

When I traveled to Heredia, Costa Rica in February for two weeks of immersion Spanish study I chose the homestay option—having no idea that it would be as rewarding as the classroom experience itself—if not more so.

Heredia: Known as “The City of Flowers,” Heredia is an ideal town for language study if you want to have a small town (“pueblo”) experience and still be close enough to San José for big city amenities. Because Heredia is located at the foot of a central volcanic range, all you have to do is look up for a breathtaking view of the volcanoes and lush mountains that embrace it.

By the time I finished my morning shower and got dressed, Carlos would have already left for work, and Marielos, his wife, would be in the kitchen putting the finishing touches on a substantial breakfast. ¡Roger - Comida! (Roger - Food!), Marielos would call out from the kitchen.

In the kitchen Marielos would have prepared scrambled eggs, toast, fresh fruit, a batido (a shake made with fresh berries), and the staple, gallo pinto (black beans and rice). As we ate, Marielos would ask about my life back home and my impressions of Costa Rica before she switched on the TV to watch the morning news. She always explained the background behind the more important local and national stories. Then it was time for me to head off to school—only a 10-minute walk away.

The School: The language school I had chosen, Intercultura, situated in a spacious, Spanish colonial-style house, felt more like a home. It had a well-equipped kitchen, an activity room, a patio, a flower-filled courtyard with an orange tree and lounge chairs, and a den with a TV and VCR. The remaining rooms were used for classes.

The language program consisted of four hours of instruction (small group and private) each weekday morning—conducted entirely in Spanish. Careful attention was given to placing students at the right class level so that we were sufficiently challenged but not overwhelmed. What impressed me most about my instructors was how they maintained a noncompetitive, intimate atmosphere; it felt more like an informal gathering of friends than a class.

In addition to classes, Intercultura offered many cultural and social activities including classes in Latin cooking, arts and crafts, and Latin dance. The staff also helped arrange trips to San José’s theaters, nightclubs, and museums as well as excursions to rainforests, volcanoes, and beaches.

Exploring Heredia: After classes, students explored the city. Heredia is home to the national university, a soccer stadium, a central market, a central park, a small cathedral, and an athletic and fitness complex named after Oscar Arias Sanchez (former president and Nobel Peace Prize laureate).

The Mercado Central is an amalgam of butcher shops, produce stores, arts and craft stores, clothing stores, bakeries, and restaurants. The smells, sounds, and sights are mesmerizing. This is where we generally settled to have lunch.

After lunch, we often relaxed at the Parque Central, a lovely place adorned with mango trees, fountains, and monuments. People went there to talk with friends and family, play with their young children in the fountain waters, or just sit and reflect.

Across the street from the Parque Central, the Basílica de la Imaculada Concepción, with its colonial facade, stained-glass windows, and bell tower, stands against the breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains and clear skies. The feeling is not only of a different place but a different time.

When it was time for the various cultural activities to start, we made our way back to the school. I chose the Latin dance classes: salsa, cumbia, and merengue. Our dance instructor, Ingrid, brought enough energy to her classes to launch a space shuttle. ¡Más azúcarrrrr! (More sugar!) and ¡Más saborrrrr! (More flavor!) were her favorite expressions whenever she wanted to see more hip movement or more rhythm put into the moves.

Weekend Excursions: My first weekend excursion was to the Monteverde Cloud Forest. On one of the trails we spotted a rare Resplendent Quetzal—the most colorful and spectacular bird in the tropics. It sat on a high branch for nearly 20 minutes. Later in the morning we moved on to the nearby Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. Brilliantly colored hummingbirds buzzed by our ears or hovered briefly in front of us.

After several hours of hiking, we decided to check out the cantina at the reserve’s information center where a woman cooked at the grill. While we ordered, the cashier asked about my travels, impressions, language studies, etc. When our food was ready, we asked him to join us at our table. He revealed that he was a university student and folk dance teacher and asked if we had any questions about Spanish.

I admitted that I was always confused about the differences between aquí and acá when expressing the concept of “here” and between allí and allá when expressing the concept of “there.” By positioning us like play pieces on a game board, he was able to clarify the use of these terms based on our relative positions to his motorcycle helmet. This demonstration did wonders for my understanding.

As I thought about this impromptu language lesson and my encounters with ordinary citizens back in Heredia’s Parque Central as well as other such places, I realized that the beauty of immersion language study is that learning isn’t restricted to the formal, classroom setting. My classroom was wherever I happened to be in Costa Rica, and my teachers were whomever I happened to be interacting with at the moment.

Lasting Impressions: Although I thoroughly enjoyed all the excursions, sights, and activities, no impression was as deep or as lasting as those of my homestay experience.

What I enjoyed most about my host family was the fact that they did things together—fútbol (soccer) matches, leisurely strolls, shopping. Dinner was a family affair. Marielos’ mother would join us as well as one of her sisters and her sister’s children—all of us laughing, joking, and sharing in the conversation. Tearing myself away to do my homework never got any easier.

In their letters, Carlos and Marielos always say three things: that they look forward to my next visit, that they want me to stay in their home whenever I return, and that I will always have a family in Costa Rica (Acuérdese que tiene familia en Costa Rica).

ROGER EDWARDS is an electrical engineer and technical writer for the telecommunications and computer networking industries who lives in Cary, NC. He is developiing a screenplay inspired by his recent travels in Latin America.